I have just sanded my hardwood floors to the bare wood. I want to stain and then wax them. I don’t want to…

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…use polyurethane. Does anyone know a good "how-to" guide for doing this properly?
The hardwood is some kind of ligth oak. I have rough sanded, because the old finish was very rough and, basically, a mess. But I have still not done the final, smooth sanding, so hopefully I can still take time to research my finishing options…

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  1. Lady S says:
    July 21, 2009 at 9:49 pm

    Hmmm…check out hgtv.com…I suspect you’ll find some info there. And check out Home Depot or Lowes — they have booklets and even free instructional classes for all manner of home DIY projects. I have found the booklets and classes invaluable.

    What kind of hardwood? There are many water-based stains on the market, and these work well and are very quick drying. No matter how you stain, you are going to have to sand again (the stain lifts the grain of the wood) before putting a finish on. You can wax directly over using a clear or tinted wax. A water-based poly designed for floors is a good sealant, but as this stuff has a big tendency to bubble, you need to make sure your floors are perfectly cleaned of any sanding residue, and are going to need a sanding or two between coats (you’ll need at least 4 coats, if not more for flooring.) You can stain and then apply wax directly over it without sealing (always my choice) — this is the way they used to do it in the olden days. You can get clear or tinted waxes, but if you foregoing a sealing finish, I would suggest "bowling alley" or "basketball court" wax. Waxing will require application, then buffing with steel wool (usually #1) and then buffed with a buffing pad. While waxing will not hold up quite as well as poly and will need re-dos…you’re going to be waxing on a regular basis anyway. Stains, however, are more likely to permeate the wax than a poly if not caught early enough (but…it is easier to spot sand and fix a small spot that has been stained and waxes than one that has been polyurethaned). As you have a hard wood rather than soft (pine), this is actually a nice alternative with a beautiful finish.

    Another alternative is a tung oil finish — gorgeous — and I have included a link to a site that talks about this (I did this on a paneled wall, and got the directions from here). http://www.realmilkpaint.com/floortung.html.

    And…well…yeah, you should have thought about this before the sanding, but that’s water under the bridge. If it is going to be, like, a week or more before you finish your floors…do this TODAY: Lay down a layer of kraft paper (called painter’s paper/drop cloth paper — cheap — available everywhere) over the entire floor and then lay plastic paths for walking. Otherwise, your bare wood will pick up dust, dirt, and will start to oxidize (mellow) before you get it finished.

    And…don’t forget…start in a corner and finish at a doorway…don’t want to paint yourself into a corner, so to speak. ;-]

    Then there is the option of getting someone else (like a professional) to do it for you…while that’s not an option I usually go for…it can save a lot of time and possibly money in the long run.

    ADDED: Oak…mmmm… the tung finish will look great with oak — I use tung on oak furniture all the time and it looks so rich and mellow. And, OK, you’re absolved with the sanding part ;-].

  2. Sunshine says:
    July 21, 2009 at 9:49 pm

    You’re looking into this AFTER you’ve sanded your floors? You should’ve done your homework before this point! All I would be able to recommend would be the polyurethane. Sorry.

  3. mike4400 says:
    July 21, 2009 at 9:49 pm

    Since it is winter and your house is probably not ventilated you are going to have to use a water based product for a top coat. The stain you use is going to smell real bad…it is most likely oil based. Sherwin Williams makes a good water based Poly coating. Find the nearest store and go talk to them.

  4. mom 12 says:
    July 21, 2009 at 9:49 pm

    Try the libary for a how to guide. But you have to seal them with something. A wax finish is always nice . Try butchers wax.

  5. Jedi Master <S I T H>< says:
    July 21, 2009 at 9:49 pm

    BAD IDEA….

    the polyurethane is there for a reason. it protects the wood from marks and scratches. if you dont want a shinny floor just use a flat or satin finish…

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